The legacy of Anna Wintour and candidates for Vogue editor

Anna Wintour steps aside as Vogue editor-in-chief after decades of defining fashion culture

When Anna Wintour presented her initial edition of American Vogue at the end of 1988, the reaction from the magazine’s printer was surprising: “Was there an error?” The cover, showcasing model Michaela Bercu in a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with denim jeans, was a departure from the meticulously styled, formal portraits that had characterized the magazine for many years. The photograph was relaxed, taken outside, and embodied a spontaneous spirit that would represent a fresh era for Vogue.

The event laid the foundation for Wintour’s outlook, which would revolutionize more than just the magazine, reshaping the entire fashion industry. She brought an element of authenticity and accessibility to the publication, steering it away from its previous focus on pure luxury. Choosing to feature a model in denim, even though it occurred accidentally due to a wardrobe mistake, initiated a cultural shift. It suggested that fashion could be part of everyday attire, not just seen on fashion runways.

Having made a name for herself at British Vogue, Wintour was brought in to revitalize the American edition, and over the next 37 years, she did just that. Under her leadership, the magazine moved with confidence through the supermodel era, the rise of grunge, the dominance of celebrity culture, and the evolution toward digital-first storytelling. Throughout, Wintour maintained an acute awareness of what fashion meant to culture at large—and how it could influence more than clothing.

This week, Wintour revealed she would be resigning from her position as editor-in-chief of Vogue, concluding one of the most impactful editorial careers in the history of fashion. Although she will remain as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a role she has occupied since 2020—her exit from the magazine’s editorial leadership marks the end of a notable era.

Wintour’s influence with Vogue reaches well past the confines of its publication. She altered the standards of fashion covers, prominently incorporating celebrities into what was once an exclusive domain for models. During her initial year, she featured Madonna on the cover—an unexpected decision that initiated a fresh blend of fashion and pop culture. This marked the start of a shift that would ultimately include reality TV personalities, political leaders, and cultural icons gracing the magazine’s covers.

During her tenure at Vogue, Wintour consistently tuned into public interests, aligning the magazine’s tone with larger changes in media and consumer habits. Her editorial choices frequently impacted the real world. For example, she was one of the pioneers in introducing personalities such as Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump to the mainstream fashion dialogue, providing them a stage that greatly increased their prominence.

This editorial influence did not go unchallenged. Wintour’s choices occasionally faced opposition, like the debated 2008 magazine cover with LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen, which stirred discussions on racial imagery and representation. Nevertheless, these instances only solidified the truth that Wintour had emerged as a key player in the conversation about fashion and influence.

Her singular sense of style, marked by her signature bob hairstyle and renowned sunglasses, became closely tied to her professional persona. Wintour’s presence at the Met Gala, the much-desired acclaim of the September issue, along with various references to her likeness in pop culture (such as the fictional Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) solidified her standing as a cultural icon.

Although she projected a mysterious aura regarding her public persona, Wintour often downplayed the attention on herself. She prioritized the innovation and editorial guidance of the publications she handled rather than individual opinions. However, her influence was clear, and she was aware of it, often attending events like the The Devil Wears Prada musical celebration, acknowledging the similarities without overtly confirming them.

During her professional journey, Wintour successfully maintained influence in an ever-changing sector. Her skill in staying significant amid major media transformations—from printed glossies to digital formats—demonstrates her flexibility and insightful planning. She understood early the significance of having an online footprint, even while conventional print media faced challenges retaining its readership. While some critics argued there was too much focus on celebrity content in the era of digital media, Wintour argued that these decisions were essential to stay culturally significant.

Former colleagues and industry insiders suggest that Wintour’s decision to scale back her responsibilities was likely made autonomously. While she still holds the title of chief content officer, her impact on Vogue and other major Condé Nast magazines persists, and it is believed she will have a say in who succeeds her. Expectations surrounding this choice are already building.

Potential candidates include Eva Chen, holding the position of director of fashion partnerships at Instagram, where her broad digital knowledge plays a crucial role in today’s media landscape. Chioma Nnadi is frequently mentioned as well, as she oversees the editorial content at British Vogue, and is regarded as one of Wintour’s protégés. Her career advancement within the organization is being closely watched, representing a potential continuation of Wintour’s influence with a new generational view.

Other names in the conversation include Amy Astley, former Teen Vogue editor now leading Architectural Digest, as well as current senior editors like Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Even Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, a film producer with ties to the fashion world, has been mentioned—though such speculation remains firmly in the realm of conjecture.

As Wintour departs from the magazine she played a pivotal role in turning into a global powerhouse, experts in the field are assessing her influence. The fashion industry has undergone considerable changes throughout her tenure—not only in aesthetics, but also in its influence on cultural and political conversations. Issues like sustainability, ethical labor conditions, and the digital revolution have shifted fashion from a niche focus to a broader discourse on identity, values, and societal progress.

Wintour, often seen as an influential person in the elite fashion sphere, contributed to making it more approachable—while still maintaining the exceptional levels of style and inventiveness that Vogue is known for. Her ability to merge exclusivity with widespread attraction, and luxury fashion with everyday relevance, is possibly her most lasting accomplishment.

As the sector considers the future, the task for the person following in her footsteps will be to keep managing an ever-changing environment. Juggling the business demands of contemporary media with the cultural duties now associated with fashion won’t be simple. However, Wintour has already contributed to paving this path.

In many ways, her presence at the wedding of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year symbolized her unique cultural position. Having featured Sánchez on the cover in 2023, Wintour wasn’t merely attending an event—she had played a role in shaping the public narrative around it.

Considering all her achievements in the publishing industry, Wintour’s greatest influence might be how she expanded the importance of fashion beyond its traditional boundaries. She didn’t just observe trends—she molded them, anticipated them, and, in many cases, created them.

As Anna Wintour steps down from her position as editor-in-chief, Vogue and the larger fashion industry find themselves in a phase of contemplation and change. Her exit signifies more than just the closure of an era—it’s an opportunity to ponder the future direction for a magazine and an industry that she significantly shaped.